Sigalon's Gastronomy Soup

Olive Oil Poached Sablefish with Citrus & Thyme

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 20:22:48 GMT

The sweet taste and flaky texture of sablefish are complemented by its poaching liquid: wonderfully fruity olive oil. Poached at an unusually low temperature, the flavors of this fish and its accompaniments meld together, creating a depth that is unattainable otherwise. This ensures slow, even cooking, as well as retained moisture and deeply imparted flavors. Poaching fish in olive oil adds yet another dimension: The lemon practically melts, while the crunch of the Spanish almonds is enhanced. Unpretentious and patient, this dish is a nod to the typically Spanish (and Gilded Fork) way of cooking.

4 servings

Ingredients

2½ pounds sablefish fillets, 1-inch thick (You may substitute any firm white fish. Use what’s freshest)
2 large lemons, thinly sliced crosswise
¼ cup fresh lemon thyme
½ cup Marcona almonds, roughly chopped
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste (about 3 teaspoons)
Freshly ground black pepper (about ½ teaspoon)

[Chef’s Note: Sablefish is also known as black cod. If you do not have Spanish Marcona almonds, feel free to use slivered almonds or to chop peeled almonds. In addition, we would suggest using a green, fruity olive oil for poaching, preferably a Spanish one with lemon undertones.]

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 250° F. Sprinkle the fish with the salt and pepper, allowing it to sit for a few minutes at room temperature. In one layer, place half of the lemon slices in an 8-inch glass baking dish. Sprinkle half of the thyme over the lemon. Arrange the fish in one layer on top of the lemon and thyme, and top with the remaining thyme, lemon and the chopped almonds. Pour the olive oil into the dish, carefully preventing the toppings from falling off the fish. Bake until the fish is cooked through and flaky, about 1 to 1¼ hours.

Service

When plating, lift the fillets out of the olive oil, leaving behind the bottom level of lemons but plating the fish with the top layer of lemons and the almonds. Spoon a few tablespoons of the poaching olive oil over the fish. We suggest serving this dish with simple rice pilaf or an herbed couscous.

Recipe by Sandra Di Capua
Photo by Mark Tafoya

A Woolf at the Table

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 18:13:56 GMT

Reader Ann Drak recently wrote us with the following request: “I’m looking for foods of England from the early 1900s, particularly the foods of the Virginia Woolf set.”

In reading the diaries and letters of author Virginia Woolf and her Bloomsbury friends, it’s pretty apparent that meals were little more than an excuse for interesting people to gather. Comestibles were beneath consideration and played a secondary role. Woolf was curious about the actual food and understood its importance to her work, yet she was also keenly aware that in the writing of her day, too much attention to such seemingly mundane topics would be regarded as de classé. Bear in mind the context in which Woolf lived. She and her social friends were of the educated class and had servants who did the cooking. She and her literary friends were products of British universities, where the classics—whose epic authors rarely mentioned the preparation of meals—were regarded as the foundation of literature.

Woolf, clearly torn between what she knew to be significant and what she knew to be literary decorum, lamented this conundrum in A Room of One’s Own: “It is part of the novelist’s convention not to mention soup and salmon and ducklings, as if soup and salmon and ducklings were of no importance.” Still, when food was mentioned in her novels, it was only in passing or in tandem with female characters, who were naturally involved in things of the table. There are, however, three notable exceptions:

In Orlando, she writes about the time that Orlando spends with gypsies in Greece and how he discovers that the Greek language had no word for beautiful. To describe a sunset, Orlando instead exclaims the closest approximate: “How good to eat!”

In A Room of One’s Own, Woolf famously compares the dinner fare served at male and female colleges. While the men eat sumptuously, the women must make do with bland, dreary foods. “A good dinner is of great importance to good talk,” she complains. “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”

In To the Lighthouse, the reader encounters countless small domestic scenes including coffee cups and ordinary meals. We also see a sharp departure from this restraint when Woolf passionately serves up two pages of a rapturous description of boeuf en daube, contrasting its succulence with the abomination that “passes for cookery in England.”

It’s tempting to think that Woolf’s appreciation for French food came from writers like Elizabeth David, but Woolf’s suicide occurred a decade too early. Nonetheless, David’s books can provide an outline of what was considered to be good cooking at that time, at least in the south of France and Italy, places that people of Woolf’s class would have known well. Here are two of David’s recipes over which Woolf may very well have swooned.

Boeuf en Daube a la Niçoise
Elizabeth David, from whose files this recipe comes, suggested accompanying this meal with a hearty red wine from the Rhone region, such as a Gigondas or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. She consented that a Vin de Pays from Mt. Ventoux or the Ardeche may work well should a budget be in place.

For the marinade
Olive oil, 1/2 cup
Onion, 1 sliced
Carrot, 1 chopped
Celery, 1/2 stalk chopped into small pieces
Shallots, 4 chopped
Red wine, 2/3 cup
Garlic, 3 cloves
Parsley, 2 sprigs
Peppercorns, to taste
Herbs*, to taste
Salt, to taste

For the daube
Round of beef, approximately 3 pounds
Carrots, 1/2 pound cut in 1-inch rounds
Garlic, 3 cloves
Herbs*
Slab bacon, 1/2 pound
Black olives, pitted, 1/2 pound
Tomatoes, 3 peeled and chopped

Method
1. Heat the oil in a small pan, then add the onion, carrot, celery, and shallots. Sweat them for a minute or two.

2. Add the remaining marinade ingredients and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Cool, then strain the marinade before using.

3. Choose an earthenware or other flameproof casserole with a lid that is just large enough to contain the beef. Arrange the beef in the casserole and the carrots, garlic, and herbs around the beef.

4. Pour the cooled marinade into the casserole, then top with the slab bacon.

5. Cover the casserole with oiled paper and the lid.

6. Cook in a slow oven (300°F/150°C) for 2 1/2 hours.

7. Remove the lid, add the olives and tomatoes, and cook for an additional 1/2 hour.

8. Remove from the oven. Slice the beef thickly. Cut the bacon into cubes and serve atop the beef, which should be served moistened with a bit of the cooking liquid.

*Note: David suggests bay leaves and the typical blend of herbs de Provence (thyme, marjoram, and rosemary). She says they may be fresh or dried; consequently, the measurements are “to taste.” Note that all temperatures and measurements have been adapted for use in American kitchens.

Aigrossade Toulonnaise
This simple garlicky aiöli was commonly served in the South of France, often with vegetables and chickpeas. It is intended to be served as a side dish with the daube.

For the aiöli
Egg yolks, 2
Garlic, 2 or 3 cloves crushed to a paste
Dry English mustard, 1 teaspoon
Salt and pepper, to taste
Olive oil, about 1 cup
Tarragon vinegar, a few drops
Lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon

For the aigrossade
Mixed vegetables, approximately 3 pounds steamed or boiled, such as artichokes and green beans, dried beans, or chickpeas

Method
1. In a heavy bowl or mortar, combine the yolks, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper. Stir until uniformly combined.

2. Slowly add a few drops of the oil and stir until all the oil is absorbed. Slowly add a little more oil, a few drops at a time, stirring all the time. Continue to add the remaining oil in this fashion. From time to time add tiny amounts of tarragon vinegar, and then — when almost done adding the oil — add the lemon juice. Ms David says you should “Stir steadily but not like a maniac.”

3. Strain the cooked vegetables, coat with the aiöli, and serve in a warmed dish. Do not attempt to reheat.

References
David, Elizabeth. A Book of Mediterranean Food. London: John Lehman, 1950. (reissued in Elizabeth David

Drummond, Jack Cecil, Sir, and Anne Wilbraham. The Englishman’s Food: A History of Five Centuries of English Diet. London: Tralfalgar Square, 1993.

Flandrin, Jean-Louis and Massimo Montanari. Food: A Culinary History from Antiquity to the Present. New York: Penguin, 2000.

Hartley, Dorothy. Food in England. London: Warner, 1999.

Mennell, Stephen. All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present. Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Press, 1996.

Tannahill, Reay. Food in History. (rev. ed.) New York: Crown, 1995.

Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne. History of Food. Anthea Bell, trans. Cambridge: Blackwell Publishers, 1994.

Wilson, C. Anne. Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to Recent Times. London: Constable, 1973.

Pain mi-complet aux fruits rouges et sirop d’agave

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 13:30:27 GMT

Ces jours-ci, si je devais m’occuper de mon levain en plus de tout le reste, je crois que j’aurais aussi vite fait de me mettre un entonnoir ou une passoire sur la tête et de déclarer forfait puis de basculer dans un monde assez, comment dire … irrationnel?! Pour éviter cela et, accessoirement, nourrir ma famille, [...]

Weekend Meditation: Finding the Light

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 09:00:00 GMT

Spring Vernal Equinox: March 20th 2010 1:32 PM EDT

The great thing about life is that we are constantly being taught, or given the opportunity to be taught, even when the lesson is not necessarily what we signed up for. Volunteering to plant trees, for example, can teach us as much about neighborhood politics and working in a group as it does about digging holes and watering methods. Last weekend, I got some lessons on how to cook, and live my life, from a photography workshop.

Read Full Post

Crispy risotto balls

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 08:10:10 GMT

Here's a perfect way to turn leftovers into deliciousness.

I don't know about you, but I often have a little bit of leftover risotto. We usually throw it out - but since I discovered this little gem, I will never do that again. In fact, I'll make a point of making too much risotto next time!

What you do is simply mix the leftover risotto with an egg (I didn't have a large amount of risotto, so I used about half an egg, mostly yolk), shape small balls, then roll them in panko. (Panko is ultra-crispy bread crumbs, and you can find it in Asian groceries.) Fry in lots of oil - I used peanut, which is great for frying.

So, that's it. Super easy, super fast and a great little appetizer.

Crispy risotto balls

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 08:10:00 GMT

Anne's Food

Saffron Pasta Salad

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 06:12:15 GMT

Saffron Pasta Salad

Wayne had a meeting near St. Helena a while back. It's about 2 hours north of San Francisco, and as he was walking out the door I decided I'd hop in the car too. The drive is nice. Particularly if you sneak off the main roads. Yellow swatches of mustard buffer the vineyards, and wildflowers seemed to be coming out of their winter slumber here and there. After a quick stop at Bouchon Bakery, we arrived in St. Helena late in the afternoon. There are many ways to spend two hours on a drizzly day in that part of the world and I entertained myself by taking pictures, browsing shops, and sipping hot coffee. Today's recipe was inspired by a little book I picked up for $5 in a second-hand bookstore. A first edition copy of Diane Worthington's The Taste of Summer had a recipe for a pasta salad dressed with a saffron vinaigrette that caught my attention. I held off on making it until asparagus started showing up in the markets here, and it was well worth the wait.

Diane's version combined a vibrant red-wine and saffron vinaigrette with late spring produce (asparagus, fresh peas, zucchini), and orzo pasta. I did a variation using only asparagus and a toasted whole wheat orecchiette pasta from Puglia. There were no peas or zucchini at the market at the time, and everyone seemed to be out of the whole wheat orzo I normally use.

Not everyone likes whole wheat pastas - I totally get that. They can be heavy and gloppy - something I was worried about as I was draining the orecchiette. But, the strong saffron vinaigrette stood up beautifully to the pasta here - the key was letting it sit for a while after dressing it. The orecchiette I used is a bit obscure, so let me offer up a few alternative suggestions. Diane's recipe calls for orzo - I'd certainly make this again using whole wheat orzo. For those of you who want to ease your way into the whole wheat / whole grain pasta thing, I suggest going half/half, it really lightens things up while still incorporating more whole ingredients. For example:

- 1/2 whole wheat penne pasta + 1/2 regular penne pasta
- 1/2 whole wheat orzo + 1/2 regular orzo

The irritating part is that I'm also going to encourage you to cook each type of pasta in its own pot. Aside from that, lefftovers make a good lunch, and if asparagus isn't quite in season where you live I can imagine an alternative versions with either chopped kale or broccoli working well :)...

Related links:
- Revised updated edition of The Taste of Summer (Chronicle Books, June, 2000)

Continue reading Saffron Pasta Salad...

CHIC221: Don’t Forget Breakfast

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:12:06 GMT

CHIC Podcast #221: Don’t Forget Breakfast This week we welcome our nutritionist, Pat Plavcan, back to the podcast studio. She is here to tell us why we should never forget to eat breakfast. I have to be honest; I don’t eat breakfast very often. I give her all the reasons why I can’t/don’t and she refutes every one of them. I thank her for that. You should eat breakfast. We also talk about National Nutrition Month.

Chocolate Mint Macarons

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 16:19:33 GMT

Certainly not my prettiest macarons to date, but they were still tasty. I used un-aged egg whites this time, and maybe because of that the batter was runnier than usual. (I also used unpeeled almonds due to extreme laziness but I don't think that affected the texture - just the appearance.) Hence, the macarons turned out bigger and flatter. I should have adjusted the oven time, but as it was, I over-baked them slightly. And the feet - well, they are just big and ugly.

However, even ugly macarons taste good. Especially when they're filled with mint-chocolate ganache. Super simple by the way - chop 200 g of dark chocolate, mix with 100 ml of boiling cream and a few drops of peppermint extract. Stir until smooth and wait for it to cool and thicken before filling the macs.

For a lot prettier macarons, check out this round-up over at MacTweets!

Chocolate Mint Macarons

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 16:19:00 GMT

Anne's Food

3 liens et 2 livres pour le weekend

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:02:56 GMT

=> 3 liens :Les droits et les devoirs du blogueur, un article de chez Reporters sans Frontières qui intéressera sans doute les débutants et les autres. Le blog est un outil puissant, on ne peut pas y mettre n'importe quoi. La législation s'y applique comme ailleurs.30 recettes de chocolat téléchargeables gratuitement sur le site Chocolat de Pâques : des basiques mais avec de chouettes photos et

bakewell tart

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 11:41:18 GMT

I confessed some wanderlust a few weeks ago, though “some” is a bit of an understatement. See, parents get paralyzed a bit in the beginning — in the early days, just getting a cup of coffee in the morning is kind of a triumph — thus even when the kid hits a half year old (which once-Wee Jacob did this week, sniffle) and you’ve got a good routine down, you still know you’re not ready to pack everything the three of you will need for one week into suitcases and then willingly relocate to a 180 square foot stateroom for a so-called vacation.

But we’re doing it anyway and I cannot wait. The prospect of “whee! vacation!” is officially less terrifying than the number of diapers, burp cloths, types of infant first aid, teething rings and onesies we are packing into suitcases, thus, it is now or never: we’re getting on a boat. And guess who is coming with us?

... Read the rest of bakewell tart on smittenkitchen.com

Inte en fisk

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 10:03:00 GMT

Idag nappar det fan inte. Men solen skiner.

Un index par ingrédients pour Bio, Bon, Gourmand de Valérie Cupillard

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 08:34:13 GMT

Vous êtes l’heureux propriétaire du livre Bio, Bon, Gourmand de Valérie Cupillard? Vous pouvez télécharger un index (52 pages!) de toutes les recettes qu’il contient, par ingrédients, en cliquant ici. Un outil bien utile, merci Valérie! Vous pouvez imprimer ou partager ce billet en cliquant sur les icônes suivantes:

Sticky Lemon Rolls, Cheesy Crackers, and Chunky Granola Most popular posts published March 12-18, 2010

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 08:00:00 GMT

Popular posts this past week included a recipe for sticky lemon breakfast rolls, another for crispy cheesy homemade crackers, a look at a tiny and brilliant kitchen renovation, and tips for defrosting meat quickly. Read on for these and more top posts from this past week! 15. One Pot of Polenta: Two Weeknight Meals 14. Paranoid? How to Remember Turning Off the Oven 13. Green Velvet Cake Balls and an Irish Tea Cozy 12. Guess This Mystery Grocery Item! 11. Before & After: Bright and Tiny Studio Kitchen

Read Full Post

a view from Melbourne

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 03:42:41 GMT

I'm here in Melbourne, enjoying the amazing weather and the fantastic Melbourne Food & Wine Festival. I've been enjoying myself far too much to write a proper post, so you'll have to make do, for now, with the snap shots of people and things I've been enjoying here in Melbourne. More when I get home, promise.

The famous Melbourne Bratwurst sandwich at Queen Victoria Market.

Gippsland blue cheese from Victoria and Pyengana cheddar from Tasmania, at the T'Gallant winery lunch.

A sign at a market stall in Prahran market wishing us a great soirée at the Earthly Abundance dinner.

The visiting American chefs being introduced at the Earthly abundance dinner, from left, David, April Bloomfield, Josiah Citrin, Nancy Silverton, Nobu Matsuhisa.

Awesome April and Nancy.

The gorgeous, laden table at the Earthly Abundance dinner

Showing me artisanal Australian beers at the Prahran market

An Aussie brand of humor. Take them seriously!

At the Metlink Edible garden exhibit.

Showing off fresh produce at Circa

An afternoon at T'Gallant.

The best Australian meat pie ever, at the bar at Middle Park Hotel.

Fresh mangosteens at Prahran market

Another spot of Aussie humor.

Smiling Fleur at Market Lane Coffee. Coffees in Melbourne are indeed fabulous.

Nouilles soba au chou vert, carotte et graines de sésame .

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:26:39 GMT

Nouilles soba au chou vert, carotte et graines de sésame « Oh là là ! Mais que vais-je faire avec ce chou vert ? » demande Pascale à Silvia, tout en transvasant ses légumes du sac de Silvia vers le...

Tarte aux poires sur lit d'amandes

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:37:00 GMT

Dessert

Pavé de thon au pesto

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:33:00 GMT

Plat principal

Soupe turque aigre douce aux boulettes (eksili köfte)

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:31:00 GMT

Plat principal

Pesto rosso

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:28:00 GMT

Amuse-gueule

What's Cooking This Weekend? Weekend of March 20-21, 2009

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:15:00 GMT

What's cooking this weekend? Are you enjoying fresh spring sunshine? Perhaps a Saturday brunch is in order, or a batch of homemade pizza on Sunday afternoon. What are you cooking, and what kitchen projects do you have planned? Tell us!

Read Full Post

Quiche aux zucchinis et fromage blanc

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:05:00 GMT

Plat principal

This Week's Recipes: Lemon Sticky Buns to Thai Iced Tea

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:00:00 GMT

Looking for something to cook this weekend? Here's a roundup of all the recipes and recipe reviews we published this past week. • Frozen banana peanut butter milkshakes • Thai iced tea • Asparagus with poached egg, tarragon and chives • Oxtail ragu • Garlic and herb roasted pork loin • Crispy cheesy homemade crackers • Teeny-tiny new potatoes with lemon • Two vegan mayo recipes • Sticky lemon rolls with cream cheese glaze

Read Full Post

Fun Friday: This Week’s Blog Roundup

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:51:18 GMT

This week, the food blogosphere was filled with green confections, corned beef, and leprechauns drinking green beer. Underneath it all, there was some pretty neat (but overlooked) stuff. Here are this week’s most interesting (non-green) mouthfuls of delicious genius from around the web.

Chocolate Gravy (Cooking with Anne)
We love rich, chocolate decadence. Especially before 9am. Cooking with Anne makes a luscious chocolate gravy, and the healthy mom will even feed it to her seven children for breakfast. It’s that good.

What are your cookbooks worth? (Baking Bites)
If you’re anything like me, you might have an extensive (and somewhat random) collection of cookbooks that overflows your bookshelves. Baking Bites has one too, and tells us how to determine your collection’s worth (not that you’d ever, ever sell them).

Have Your Cake and Eat it Too (Christopher Kimball Blog)
Have you ever wondered how to tell exactly when your cake is finished baking? The Christopher Kimball Blog gives us a video demonstration on the perfectly baked cake.

Yum, Bison (The Duo Dishes)
St. Patrick’s day was two days ago and I’m already tired of seeing corned beef around the internet. For a change, The Duo Dishes makes corned bison. Make it year round!

Enter The Batter (Foodie at Fifteen)
It’s the end of Girl Scout Cookie season and a lot of us have leftovers. Foodie at Fifteen (now 17) might be young, but he makes amazing dessert. Especially this blondie/Tag Along/chocolate chip pie. Genius. Watch this kid.

New Book To Publish Julia Child’s Letters (The Epi Log)
The Epi Log reports on the NYT announcement that Houghton Mifflin Harcourt will publish a new book based on Julia Child’s letters from the Schlesinger Library on the History of Women in America at Harvard University.

Photo: CookingWithAnne.com

Recipe: Asparagus with Poached Egg, Tarragon and Chives

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:30:00 GMT

Earlier today, we asked what spring foods you're looking forward to. We welcomed asparagus and chives into our kitchen this week and thought we'd dress up the classic asparagus-and-poached-egg combo with a bright herb and lemon dressing. Serve this for brunch or dinner and celebrate the new season's fresh flavor and color!

Read Full Post

Saint-Jacques aux chataignes et agrumes

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:08:00 GMT

Entrée

Emincés de poulet à la provencale

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:05:00 GMT

Plat principal

How Do I Get the Odor of Spices Out of My Kitchen? Good Questions

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:00:00 GMT

Q: I picked up some cumin on a recent trip to Morocco, and the scent is much more intense than any I have every bought in the States. I made my very first tagine the other night, and now my tiny apartment reeks of cumin! It's been 5 days since I cooked that meal, and every time I walk into my apartment, I wrinkle my nose. Any suggestions for eliminating the smell? Did I get a bad batch of cumin? Should I stop using the stuff? I'mtoo embarrassed to have any friends over in the meantime. Sent by Jen

Read Full Post

Baconlindad oxfilé à la kvarn

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:36:00 GMT

Efter isfisket byxade vi abborrarna. Men vi väntar med att äta upp dem till i vår. Nu har jag lindat alrökt bacon runt filén på en oxe. Potatisen är skalad och tomaterna skivade. Tunnt skivad rödlök ligger i isvatten för att gifta sig med tomaterna. Nu en brasa och gin tonic.

Playing Around: 5 New Takes on Classic Rice Krispie Treats

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:30:00 GMT

Sometimes all it takes to satisfy our sweet tooth is a chewy, sticky square of crispy rice cereal and melted marshmallow. We love rice krispie treats as much today as we did when we were kids! The original recipe will always be a classic, but here are a few twists in case you're in the mood for something new.

Read Full Post

Taosts de saumon fumé à l'estragon

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:26:00 GMT

Entrée

Aubergines à la japonaise

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:24:00 GMT

Accompagnement

tartelette feuilletée à la creme de St Jacques

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:19:00 GMT

Entrée

Tartiflette camping

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:12:00 GMT

Plat principal

Vinaigrette "caroline"

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:08:00 GMT

Sauce

Crevettes coco poivron

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:06:00 GMT

Plat principal

Madeleines tout chocolat

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:02:00 GMT

Dessert

Print and Hang! Menus from the New York Public Library

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:00:00 GMT

The New York Public Library has a breathtakingly vast digital archive. You can browse botanicals, photographs, historic apartment floorplans, and (our favorite) old menus. It's addictive! And here's the best part: You can order prints, framed or unframed, or print them out yourself for free. We can so see a row of these whimsical menus in a kitchen.

Read Full Post

Poulet au citron en cocotte

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 14:56:00 GMT

Plat principal